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Old 03-15-2008, 09:54 PM
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Default AltimaVixen's "how to" Jacob's ICE pack install

Originally Posted by AltimaVixen
Install "How-To" on Jacob's Ice Pack ignition
First of all the install is pretty straight forward. The instructions
that Jacob's provides are OK; can be a little confusing with their
diagrams. Tools we used were a drill, good metal drilling bits(various sizes), pencil, phillips/flathead bits, plastic ties, flat head/phillips screwdriver, couple of misc wrenches and sockets,
and some 18guage wire. This install was done on a 96' 1st gen 5-speed. First disclaimer: This is going to be a somewhat condesensed version of the install with a few pix just so you can get a basic idea. Again, the instructions are pretty straight forward that are provided to you with the Jacob's Ice Pack. I'm adding a few pix along with each paragraph and they are all different. Alott yourself a decent block of time. This install took us about 4-5 hrs with small breaks inbetween or a run to the autoparts store for something. Don't rush this one. Take your time.

First of all, I ordered the Jacob's Ice Pack directly from Jacob's. Dealt with a guy named Cary. He was very cool and helpful. Everything was packaged very nicely in bubble wrap and it included the Ice Pack(brain), torquer coil, secondary trigger, mounting brackets, 2 coil wires, misc plastic ties, instructions and a few stickers.

Onto the install. We first started by setting everything out to see what went where.

You will want to look around and see where you are gonna wanna install your items. There is very little room in the engine bay so we decided to go with the area just in front of the passenger's side wheel well for the brain. Peterson had his
here and that seemed like a good place. We went ahead and put the torquer coil in this location as well. We decided to go ahead and take the intake filter off and battery out to give us more access and room to work in. (You may want to actually lay the items in the engine bay to check for lengths of wires and so forth. That's what we did to ensure everything would reach.)

The next step was was to see where exactly we wanted to mount our brain and torquer coil. We started first with the brain mounting bracket and positioned it then with a pencil drew marks into the holes of the brackets. This enabled us to get the hole started with a drill bit because we are dealing with very strong metal.
Attached Images

We then attached the bracket using our own screws for extra security.

Once the brain mounting bracket was mounted, we finger tightened the brain onto the bracket to check for fitment.

Fitment was good so we moved on to following the same process with the torquer coil mounting bracket. Marked holes, drilled, mounted the bracket and then slid the torquer coil into the bracket. You have to make the torquer coil make sort of a left turn for it to fit flush against the wheel well. You'll see what I mean when you are doing it. No wires have been hooked up as of now.

Next came the secondary trigger. We decided to mount this piece against the firewall. There is a raised little rectangle on your firewall that is just the perfect spot for the secondary trigger. We mounted the trigger with the firing mechanism pointing towards the passenger side of the vehicle.

We went ahead and twisted the wires coming from the trigger and secured them along a hard line on the firewall with plastic ties.

We then torqued everything down. There are some nuts on the bottom of the brain that you have to tighten to secure it. There is one bolt on the top of the mounting bracket for the torquer coil. We then checked for fitment again and decided to go ahead and put the battery and filter back in to see how everything would fit in. Everything was snug, but fine.

There are a couple of different ways you can hook up your wiring and components for this application. This is where the option comes into play of whether you are gonna use the stock cap or whether you have to go with the modified cap. Basically if you have 5 wires coming out of your cap, you don't need the cap modification. I had 5 wires so I went with the "EZ" application. See the wiring below.

Modified cap application. See wiring below.

Next, once everything was secured(brain,torquer coil, and secondary trigger) we decided to wire up the components. First was the brain wires to the torquer coil. The secondary trigger has to be grounded and connected to the brain. (Disclaimer #2) This part is a little tricky. The directions say you need a "key hot source, an electrical source that has 12 volts when the
vehicle is cranking and running and is OFF when the ignition is turned off. This can be found at the vehicles fuse box using a volt meter or test light"...Well, the quickest way I knew to do this was to wire it to about the same place I had my indiglos wired, so apart my dash came Jacob's provides you with a "splicer into" to get the wires connected. We used a test light and found a source. Tapped it in and we were good to go. But we had to run
and additional length of wire through the firewall to complete this. There may be an easier way to do this part.

Next went on the coil wires. You lose your little ignition stock wire altogether. Keep it in case you ever go back to stock. One wire from the center tower on the distributor cap to the torquer coil. One wire from the secondary trigger to the OEM coil.

Getting close to the end we were ready to hook up our power to the battery. We chose to use the side posts of our Optima battery to hook these up. It took a run to the auto parts store for some side post mounting screws. But they fit very nicely there

One thing on the wires coming from the brain to the battery; they are very long. So we twisted them and the ground and just rolled them up like a water hose and secured them with plastic ties. Then just kinda stuffed them down in the gap by the fenderwell.

Lastly, we put the fuse in, a 25amp. Started the car, made sure the 2 LED lights came on on the unit and we were in business! Car pulls harder all the way through the band. We added the FPR at the same time so didn't have the chance to run it with just the ignition to see how it was or just the FPR to see how it was. Good Luck and hope this gives you a guide in your install. FPR "How To" soon to come along with fuel pressure guage install -Jerry
Sorry for the lack of images. They were lost in a system crash.
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