I cannot take credit for the information posted below. Most of the compiling was done on other webforums by the very hardworking Iceman00. I am taking his upgrade guide and modifying it to be more concise and easier to find information in. Enjoy the following posts
The most basic, and one of the most important modifications that can be done to an Altima is the basic tune up. Its relatively inexpensive, and can Improve fuel economy, run smoother and cleaner, regain loss power, and in some cases, actual gain hp. Basics to look for would be, a routine oil change with filter and synthetic fluids, Distributor Cap and Rotor, new spark plug wires, fuel filter, new spark plugs with proper gap (you can gap up to .047in.though fuel economy might suffer a bit) Most of these parts can last a while, and have a fairly even spaced out service interval. Make sure you car is in tune to get the best of it.
Highs:
Keeps the car in running order
Improve fuel economy
Regain loss power
Inexpensive
Lows:
Some parts can be a little more costly depending on brand
Best Choice:
Mobile 1/ Royal Purple 5w-30 oil, NGK copper Plugs and wires.
From my personal Experience, and from several other recorded documents, CAI outperforms WAI. From low end, to top, and mid range too, CAI makes more power, and thickens up the power band. Though, through my experience, the WAI’s warmer intake temps actually improve Gas mileage over cooler temps of the CAI. Also, the WAI has slightly better throttle response. Also, with WAI, worrying about Hydro lock is not an Issue. WAI also cost a bit less than CAI (depending on the make), and CAI choices are limited. With a bypass valve, you can eliminate the risk of hydro lock on a CAI.
Highs:
Improved Throttle Response (wai)
Better Fuel economy (wai)
Lower end Torque/ Broader power band (cai)
Inexpensive (Wai)
Sound (cai, Lesser extent wai)
Lows:
Chance of Hydro lock (Cai)
Peaky power band (wai)
Cost (cai)
The Header is most likely one of the Best Mods for the Altima. For bang for buck, look not further, because this is the mod wakes the Motor up. Altima drivers have two choices as far as Headers go. 4-2-1, and 4-1. 4-2-1 (street) is considered optimal for a nice low to mid range power; while 4-1 (race) is thought better for Top end power. Many members who have had both haven't felt, or seen, any difference in power between the two. Though part throttle power may be different.
Highs:
Great bang for buck (both)
Great power gain (both)
-High RPM (4-1)
-Low to mid RPM (4-2-1)
Lows:
Reduces refinement (more vibration)
More noise
A hotly debated subject on the Altima Boards. It comes down to this, the bigger you go, the more power you can make. 3ich Cat backs have been shown to make Power at the upper Rpm range, and lose no low-end power, BUT they can reduce throttle response, and don’t make as much low/mid range power as smaller piping. Meaning, at part throttle daily Driving, you’ll feel like you lost a lot of power. Altima drivers have long used 2.25, but even that may be too small for optimal breathing. 2.5 seem like the Best compromise between 3.0 and 2.25. It offers superior low-end power, and excellent top end. Though, because of the bigger size, 2.5 might be louder than 2.25. In the end it comes down to preference. If you want maximum power, go 3inch, if you want to keep things quiet, go 2.25. If you want the best of both worlds, go 2.5. Of course, all piping should be mandrel bent for the best flow.
Highs:
Good power increase (all)
Large top end gains (3.0)
Good sound (all…varies)
Part throttle power (2.25 mostly. 2.5)
Lows:
Cost
Noise level (2.5 – 3.0 Mostly depends on setup)
Most Exhaust made for Altima only offer smaller size piping
Best Choices:
OBX (2.25)
Greddy (2.35)
VRS (2.5/3.0)
Custom (x.xx)
The TB spacer mod is actually two mods in one. The spacer, and the coolant line Bypass. The spacer actually adds a good amount of power for a low price. A good amount of low end power gained, is available right off idle, and carries some of the gains close to redline. Judging from the Dyno graph, some Top end Power might be lost due to running slightly richer, but for the power gained under the curve its worth it. The coolant bypass keeps the intake temperature cooler, and thus, you can gain back some lost power due to heat. Users have also reported better fuel economy.
Highs:
More low-end power
Better Fuel economy
Low to moderate cost
Good For FI use?
Lows:
Richer mixture can reduce top end power
Not as much power in higher RPM
Must reposition intake
Good for FI use?
Best Choices:
Altimas.net member Ecco
Ace Precision
Without getting into the subject of weather or not the KA is internally balanced or not, or if under driving damages other parts, many members (including myself) have run these pulleys, and have had no issues. Under drive pulleys don’t actually make power, instead, the “free up” lost drive train power. Automatic Altima seem to experience the biggest gain from the Pulley, compared to manual cars, which the difference isn’t as noticeable. The gains spread through the rpm band, both low through high. Most of the power “gains” comes from saved weight instead of actual under driving. Regardless, most don’t notice any change in accessory performance due to the pulley change.
Highs:
Gain throughout the power band
Can be inexpensive (check ebay)
Nice gains on automatics
Lows:
Scary history
No full pulley set
No big gains on manual cars
‘Off’ timing marks on (some) pulleys
At this time, there are not that many options on ECU upgrades on Altimas. Altimas.net member steeliz promises a tune soon, but as of right now, Altima Drivers have two choices. Standalone (and piggyback) or JWT’s ECU. JWT’s ecu adds these enchantments over the stock ecu
· Fuel and spark maps for optimal performance while maintaining OBD-II compatibility
· Removes the MPH top-speed-limit fuel cut function
· Raises the stock rev limit (7000rpm)
· Significantly improves transient throttle response (no tip-in retard)
· Leans out the A/F ratio at WOT for optimal performance
· Compensates for larger fuel injectors across the entire operating range
Gains on the ECU are said to be about a much as the header through the RPM range, though peak numbers are not as high. Also, the ECU’s cost means this should be a mod done later on. Fuel Economy can improve, though Premium fuel is required. So far, without going standalone, nothing offers what JWT does.
Highs:
More power all around, and good gains
Better fuel economy
Bigger power band
Re-programmable
Lows:
Cost
Premium fuel required
Best Choices:
JWT ECU
------------
May I add that for OBDI Altimas (93, 94, and some 95s) there is always the option of installing a daughterboard and tuning it yourself. All you need is a daughterboard, some eproms, a burner, a computer and access to a wideband o2 sensor.
There is also the option of Bikirom, which is similar to the above, yet already configured and has some different features.
Either way, you'll wind up with total control of the fuel/timing maps in your car, and should be able to create a good tune for either NA or FI.
Pros:
Fuel/Timing Control
Infinite retunes
Do It Yourself
Can do anything a JWT ecu can do
Cons:
Not just plug and play
Do It Yourself
Requires some time to get it right...
It’s no Secret that the Altima has generous low-end power, but dies at top end. Even after all the bolt ons, which perform more like a band-aid to problem, the upper RPM range remains weak. Because of the Set up of the motor, the Altima isn’t as flexible with cam swaps as the 240sx. Choosing the right cams is important, because cams as a whole have a big impact on your power curve. If you plan on using Factory camshafts as an upgrade, the best combo would be 248intake and a 232 Exhaust cam, though it would be harder to obtain in an Altima. Also Altimas can only use another Altima cam as the Exhaust cam! While cheaper, factory Cam Swapping can be a big hassle, and doesn’t really give the gains Aftermarket cams will.
As far as Aftermarket Cams go, if you are N/A, your best bet, auto or manual, is to look at JWT camshafts. PDM’s are said to make more peak power, but lose more down low, and Crowers camshafts aren’t as Aggressive as JWT’s until you get to Stage 3. Also, Crower cams are cheaper, offering a nice bang for buck
Cams are a difficult subject because there is no right or wrong answer. If you want max power, low-end power, or a nice broad power band, there is a cam set up for you.
Highs:
More Power at top end (all)
Low price (factory cams)
Proven 8+whp gain (PDM, JWT)
Better overall Power band
Lows:
Difficult install for those less Experienced (all)
Slight low-end loss
Cost (PDM, JWT)
One of the character traits on the Altimas (and this is true of other Nissans, down to the 350Z) is that on higher RPM’s, the ECU dumps massive amounts of Fuel into the car, making it run rich up top, and killing power overall. A relatively cheap way of fixing this would be to get an A/F controller. An A/F controller does exactly what its name says, by controlling (or tricking the ECU) to richen, or lean out an A/F ratio. For F/I cars, running slightly rich would be ideal, and for N/A you’ll want a slightly leaner mixture. For the Altima in particular, you will want one with a knock Sensor Reading. The Downside to A/F controllers is you’ll also need a wideband to tune, or a Dyno. And for the cost of the unit and a Tune can rise in cost. Also, if tuned incorrectly, you run the risk of severe damage to your motor. Because of the nature of this mod, it is recommended that it is done last.
Highs:
Nice gains on a Tuned unit
Relatively inexpensive to buy
Lows:
If unfamiliar, it requires professional tune (recommended anyhow)
If tuned incorrectly, can cause serious motor damage
Should not be used with Aftermarket ECUs (JWT)
Rather a new modification in the Altima world, this mod has lived on for decades through the domestic car world. This mod is to provide the home mechanic with the ability to perform a valve body upgrade without dumping $500+ on a whole upgraded valve body assembly. With the courage to complete its' task of installation, the benefits will ultimately be worth the effort. Faster shifts which result in a massively improved throttle response. Every shift feels seamless and without struggle. Life of transmission is ultimately increase, faster shifts=less friction=less heat=longer life. Improved Performance.
pros:
Faster shifts
increases life of trans
improved overall performance
throttle response
When upgrading your suspension, you must make one very important decision before you ever start. Which is more important to me, comfort or performance? Your answer here will decide which parts you buy/modify. Let's start the list.
Springs:
There are lots and lots of companies that sell drop springs for the Altima, but many are untested and/or made by unreliable companies. Stick with the following parts and you'll be in good shape.
•Eibach (93-99 Altimas get a 1.2inch drop in front, 1.0inch drop in the rear. 00-01 Altimas get a 1.2inch drop in front and a 1.2inch drop in the rear. Eibachs are closest to comfort while still providing good performance.)
•H&R (H&R gives a 1.5inch drop in front and a 1.2inch drop in the rear for 93-01 Altimas. Slightly stiffer than Eibachs, giving a little better performance and a little less comfort.)
•Sprint (2.0inch drop front & rear for 93-01 Altimas. Extreme drop causes some comfort issues due to low suspension travel. This set is more for aesthetics than performance.)
•Ground Control coilovers (Benefit here is an adjustable ride height, from a 0 to 2.5inch drop and stiffer spring rates than Eibach and H&R.)
•D2/KSport (full race coilovers allowing adjustable ride height and adjustable dampening rates. These are full race sets with very high spring rates, causing a very stiff ride. These sets are the most expensive, and offer all performance, no comfort. D2 and KSport are two different companies that sell the same coilover set powdercoated different colors; purple for D2 and orange for KSport. Everything else is the same between them. When you order, you can specify custom spring rates to allow even greater performance or greater comfort. They will also custom tailer the dampening rates to match the spring rates you specify.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Lion
D2 and KSport have different types of coilovers available for the Altima than just the street variants, such as D2's Inverted Type struts and KSport's Rally Spec variants. Stillen and D2/KSport make camber plates.
Struts:
•KYB GR2s (are about 20% firmer than OEM 1st gen Altima struts. Basically a stock feeling ride with no performance benefit.)
•2000-2001 OEM Altima SE struts (stiffer ride compared to other OEM struts. This is due to a bypass valve which helps with comfort levels in normal driving and performance in hard cornering. Stiffer than KYB GR2s but not as stiff as Tokicos.)
•Tokico (very firm well made strut. Easily the forum favorite.)
•KYB AGX (Bonus here is adjustable dampening rates. Con is there are no altima AGX sets. You must use 4th gen Maxima struts for the front and B13 Sentra struts in the rear. You must also create custom rear endlink brackets, as the B13 AGX struts do not have an Altima style endlink connection.)
Bushings:
Energy Suspension does not make Altima Bushing kits, but most Maxima bushings fit the Altima without any modification needed. All bushings listed are from 4th gen Maximas. All poly bushings give firmer suspension feeling by reducing bushing flex under load. Basically they make your car more predictable while corning. Every Altima everywhere should have these bushing sets installed.
•[Only Registered Users Can See LinksClick Here To Register] (ES part number 7-3111G)
•[Only Registered Users Can See LinksClick Here To Register] (ES part number 99995-G4803)
•Front Sway Bar Bracket Bushings (ES part number 7-5118)
•[Only Registered Users Can See LinksClick Here To Register] (ES part number 7-3117G. You must use your the metal sleeves from your Altima and grind down the exterior to fit inside the Maxima bushing, as described here [Only Registered Users Can See LinksClick Here To Register]. These bushings remove the OEM super toe control.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Lion
here's some notes I would add:
95-99 Maxima Front Sway Bar Bracket Bushings #7-5118
Universal Sway Bar Bracket Bushings
95-03 Maxima Front Subframe (Engine Crossmember) Bushings # 7.1116 (note: comes with 4 bushings, only the front two can be used) [Only Registered Users Can See LinksClick Here To Register]
A note on the rear parallel link bushings: you can use these bushings in the rear suspension knuckles, but you have to grind down the insides of the knuckles to get them to fit inside flush. You'll have to re-use the OEM rings and have them ground down also to fit inside the ES bushings. Lotta work for only a little benefit.
SuperPro of Australia makes all bushings for the Altima (front and rear) as well as caster bushings for the front arms.
Quote:
Originally Posted by KA24Tech
I don't want to be a spoiler, but our bushings are already available (except for the rack bushings) from Super Pro poly out of Australia. I haven't finished my buildup/writeup yet so I haven't posted about it.
Here is a list for the U13 FWD; All bushings are blue
Front Control Arm Lower - Front Bushing SPF1217K 1 kit req, 4 Bushings ,2 Tubes
Front Control Arm Lower - Front Bushing SPF1483K, 1, 2B,2T,2S Arm with stepped shell, 38mm to 40mm Outside diameter
Note: check the control arm to determine whether or not it has a stepped shell before ordering
Front Control Arm Lower - Rear Bushing SPF1338K, 1, 2B, Standard
Front Control Arm Lower - Rear Bushing SPF1339K, 1, 2B, PS increase, DS standard caster
Front Control Arm Lower - Rear Bushing SPF1340K, 1, 2B, PS increase, DS decrease caster
Note: I recommend using the Whiteline front lower control arm rear bushing KCA303 which increases caster (.5 degrees) on both sides (in yellow). I think the Super Pro equivalent is SPF1338AK although I haven't confirmed this yet.
Front Sway Bar Link Bushing Kit SPF2092B-4K, 1, 4B
Front Sway Bar Mount To Chassis Bushing SPF2290-_ _K, 1, 2B, Measure bar diameter 15,21,24,27mm available
Rear Control Arm Lower - Inner Bushing SPF1750K, 1, 8B,4T, 50mm long crush tube
Rear Control Arm Upper - Inner / Outer Bushing SPF1638K, 1, 8B,4T, 40mm crush tube
•OEM 2nd Gen Altima FSTB (came stock on the 2000-2001 Altimas, fits 93-01.)
•OEM Maxima FSTB (Came stock on the 2000-2001 Maximas. Pretty much the same as the Altima ones, except with a shiny chrome finish vs the Altima's flat black finish. Fits 93-01 Altimas.)
•[Only Registered Users Can See LinksClick Here To Register] (Stiffer than OEM FSTB and allows pre-loading of the Strut Tower Bars, which basically helps to ensure that much more that they won't move.)
•Stillen FSTB (Offers same functionality as Vibrant Performance FSTB for much more money. Pretty much only buy this if you want the Stillen name.)
•eBay noname FSTB (usually cheap but who knows who makes them or what the quality is.)
•Custom RSTB (Basically you take a FSTB and modify it slightly to fit in the Rear of the vehicle. Most people think it's stupid and pointless, but everyone who has done it swears they could feel a difference. Mod described here [Only Registered Users Can See LinksClick Here To Register].)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Lion
Freedom Design has an STB. It's pretty much an Ebay bar with three holes instead of two.
•Suspension Techniques RSB (easily board favorite providing very neutral handling, nearly eliminating understeer.)
•Stillen RSB (rebranded Suspension Techniques bar for more money. Pointless to buy a RSB from Stillen, as you pay more money for the exact same part.)
•Whiteline RSB (Slightly smaller diameter swaybar than the Suspension Techniques bar. Downside is Whiteline is located in Australia, so shipping is very expensive and takes a long time. This is for the 1st gen only.)
•Whiteline FSB (Only option for an upgraded front sway bar, but Whiteline is located in Australia, so shipping is very expensive and takes a long time. This is for the 1st gen only. Must be sure to get the FWD Bluebird swaybar from Whiteline, as the AWD Bluebird swaybar will not fit.)
Lower Control Arm Brace:
•[Only Registered Users Can See LinksClick Here To Register] (Highly praised bolton. Nearly eliminates control arm flex during cornering but reduces ground clearance, as bar bolts to the bottom of the lower engine crossmember. Another benefit is that the A-Arm Brace provides a degree of protection for your oil pan, since if you bottom-out your car, you'll hit the brace instead of the oil pan.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Lion
Nismoman had an A-arm brace, but it didn't connect to the subframe. Inferior and no longer available.
Endlinks:
•[Only Registered Users Can See LinksClick Here To Register] (Much stiffer than stock, providing much more reliable feeling while cornering. Removes the lag you feel when the weight of the car shifts while cornering. Basically, this is another bolt-on that every Altima everywhere should have. Also called Taz's endlinks, as they were created by a forum member here that goes by the screenname Taz.)
•Mazda Miata rear links (Aftermarket endlinks designed to fit a Mazda Miata. These were mainly used before the RacingLine endlinks came out. There were rarely in stock and are not as strong as the RacingLine parts. Pretty much no reason to go this route anymore.)
Engine Mounts:
•Poly-filled OEM Mounts (Basically a stock mount with polyurethane poured in the gaps to stiffen up the mount. Process described here [Only Registered Users Can See LinksClick Here To Register])
-•RacingLine Motor Mount inserts (There are both race series, a solid metal mount, and a street series, a polyurethane insert. Race is better performance with greatly increased engine vibration felt in the cab. Street series is better performace vs stock but not as good as race, but little to no increase in engine vibration felt. For a daily driver, street series is recommended. Also called Taz's Motor Mounts, as they were created by a forum member here that goes by the screenname Taz.)
•Place Racing Motor Mounts (aftermarket full polyurethane motor mount. These are no longer manufactured, so the only way to get them is to buy a used set.)
Official Upgrade Guide
Linear Mode
